Luella

NEW YORK, February 6, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
Luella Bartley hired Danish duo the Raveonettes to play during her fall show at the National Arts Club. But their catchy cover of Buddy Holly's "Everyday" only served to remind the English designer's many fans that this collection felt like a rehashing of vintage-inspired trends that have become familiar over the past couple of seasons: the nerdy chic of bow-front blouses, the trench, and the only slightly less ubiquitous poncho. Bartley also reinterpreted Gucci's famous horse-bit-logo print with double Ls.

What looked fresh, on the other hand, were circle-skirted fifties-style prom dresses in bright silk faille, and a couple of black-and-white paillette dresses that looked like something Andy Warhol It girl Edie Sedgwick (in the air this season thanks to an exhibit at Gallagher's and an upcoming biopic starring Sienna Miller) might have worn. Bartley also upped the luxe quotient with ostrich bombers and slim skirts. And, of course, there were her collectible bags. This season, in keeping with her mostly seventies theme, she sent out plenty of studded, grommeted, and fringed styles that are sure to fly off the shelves.

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