Luella
NEW YORK, February 6, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
Luella Bartley hired Danish duo the Raveonettes to play during her fall show at the National Arts Club. But their catchy cover of Buddy Holly's "Everyday" only served to remind the English designer's many fans that this collection felt like a rehashing of vintage-inspired trends that have become familiar over the past couple of seasons: the nerdy chic of bow-front blouses, the trench, and the only slightly less ubiquitous poncho. Bartley also reinterpreted Gucci's famous horse-bit-logo print with double Ls.What looked fresh, on the other hand, were circle-skirted fifties-style prom dresses in bright silk faille, and a couple of black-and-white paillette dresses that looked like something Andy Warhol It girl Edie Sedgwick (in the air this season thanks to an exhibit at Gallagher's and an upcoming biopic starring Sienna Miller) might have worn. Bartley also upped the luxe quotient with ostrich bombers and slim skirts. And, of course, there were her collectible bags. This season, in keeping with her mostly seventies theme, she sent out plenty of studded, grommeted, and fringed styles that are sure to fly off the shelves.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo

















