Marc by Marc Jacobs is the go-to brand for hip young women looking for must-have pieces. Wearing the label from head to toe, though, is a tricky proposition: When the designer hits upon an era or theme, he goes all out, and his kind of layer-it-on dressing isn't simple to pull off. Nor is it easy to take in at one of his shows. You're still registering the satin jacket layered on top of a nautical sweater, rib turtleneck, and belted baggy jeans when a striped dress saunters by accessorized with a pompom necklace, strappy suede boots, and knee-highs.

Jacobs made matters smoother today by revisiting the mid-eighties reference points he worked for spring—baggy jeans and bubble skirts, fluorescent parkas and taffeta prom dresses. In his mix were bright colors, oversize prints, and buffalo plaids, played against each other or paired with faded denim and wide wale corduroy. As usual, each look was accessorized to the max, with engineer caps, extra-wide belts, "MARC" barrettes, and black tights riddled with holes and runs. No doubt, even the last will be hot commodities at his always busy boutiques.