Menichetti
MILAN, February 21, 2005
By Sarah Mower
For fall, Roberto Menichetti put his version of modernism to the test on the Milan runway. He applied himself to the task by showcasing the best high-tech fabric that Italian industrial expertise can produce: interesting, barely describable materials with crinkled, washed, iridescent surfaces, and the most malleable of leathers. The designer used these to best effect when he kept things simple, tailoring shapely jackets or a plain navy double-faced cashmere topcoat over wide slouchy pants. Those pieces, along with a few nicely judged cashmere Aran knits, successfully addressed the yawning gap that has opened in the market for updated sportswear.The collection, however, lost coherence when Menichetti got conceptual, delving into overcomplicated paneled wrap skirts and lumpy chiffon and linen dresses. He'd do well to concentrate on answering the need for beautiful basics, rather than extending himself into the further reaches of avant-garde experimentalism.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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