Inspired by a book about the jewels of an Indian maharaja, Monique Lhuillier delivered an absolute gem of a collection for fall. She took a subtle approach to her theme, via a palette of persimmon, olive, and curry, one paisley print, and hand embellishments, some including semiprecious stones.

Lhuillier is an increasingly popular pick for red carpet events, so the beauty of her eveningwear—particularly a print gown with jeweled harness, a leopard-print chiffon, and a full-skirt strapless green gazar—came as no surprise. But the consistent excellence of the daywear was newsworthy. The opening look, a metallic polo skirt dress accessorized with chestnut-size beads, set the tone of modern elegance. A black Chantilly lace blouse with puff sleeves paired with a ruffle day dress made for a perfect update to the LBD, just as a light four-pocket lace jacket and pencil skirt imbued the suit with subtle sexiness. And you couldn't possibly go wrong with the designer's fox collar tweed overcoat or, for that matter, her plum metallic tweed trenchcoat. Almost all the looks were cinched at the waist with a pretty black bow—the perfect finish to this gift of a show.