When a model with a flyaway quiff and cat's-eye makeup steps onto the runway dressed in a black leather flared baby-doll bolero on top of a sparkly chiffon dress with a kick frill at the hem, what is one supposed to make of it? The late Franco Moschino was known for his sense of humor, but that couldn't explain what was behind one of the oddest conglomerates of clothing to hit the Milan runway for many a season.

As the bizarre mixture of fetishy frilled leather skirts and kinky pinafores, mixed with puff-sleeve blouses and folksy felted coats with leaf appliqués proceeded, the mystery only deepened. A few tenuous connections to the inevitable Milan bubble skirt appeared along the way, but they weren't much help in anchoring this deranged show to anything current.