The Grand Lodge Hall was an apt location for Matthew Williamson's fall show. The space, after all, is the New York Freemason's club house, and the designer's collection had more masculine touches than ever before. To begin with, cashmere turtlenecks came with "epaulets" encrusted with crystals; later, military jackets were cut in gray flannel or Lurex Jacquard. And while pants have never been his strong suit, this season he cut mean tailored trousers that were tucked into knee-high boots or worn long and full over peep-toe sandals.

But Williamson hasn't completely abandoned his flair for the feminine—he'd never disappoint front-row fans Sophie Dahl and Padma Lakshmi like that. So there was plenty of beading on Empire-line minidresses and flowing butterfly hem gowns (two of his favorite silhouettes); lace trim on silk camisoles and long-sleeve blouses; and elaborate embroidery on a capelike jacket. One patchwork group showcased his strong color sense, and there were some button-front tops that would work well at the office without being workmanlike—perfect timing, considering this Englishman is on the hunt for real estate for a New York store.