Matthew Williamson
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 8, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
The Grand Lodge Hall was an apt location for Matthew Williamson's fall show. The space, after all, is the New York Freemason's club house, and the designer's collection had more masculine touches than ever before. To begin with, cashmere turtlenecks came with "epaulets" encrusted with crystals; later, military jackets were cut in gray flannel or Lurex Jacquard. And while pants have never been his strong suit, this season he cut mean tailored trousers that were tucked into knee-high boots or worn long and full over peep-toe sandals.But Williamson hasn't completely abandoned his flair for the feminine—he'd never disappoint front-row fans Sophie Dahl and Padma Lakshmi like that. So there was plenty of beading on Empire-line minidresses and flowing butterfly hem gowns (two of his favorite silhouettes); lace trim on silk camisoles and long-sleeve blouses; and elaborate embroidery on a capelike jacket. One patchwork group showcased his strong color sense, and there were some button-front tops that would work well at the office without being workmanlike—perfect timing, considering this Englishman is on the hunt for real estate for a New York store.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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