Oscar de la Renta
NEW YORK, February 7, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
Oscar de la Renta's shows are always elegant and invariably luxe. But for fall, the designer really went to town with the signature embellishments loved so well by his mother-daughter fans (like Tina and Beyoncé Knowles, who made their way to their seats after the lights had dimmed). The collection started on an ethnic note, with belted ikat coats and jackets (a motif he introduced for spring) worn with bejeweled turtlenecks and glen plaid skirts or trousers, also embroidered. No look was left undone, except perhaps for a few pairs of shorts that shouldn't have made it to the runway; they're a tough sell for this genteel crowd. Ornamentation came via trompe l'oeil beading on cashmere crewnecks, coin appliqués on skirts and handbags, even unexpected crocheted brooches on knit scarves.Evening was just as ornate. De la Renta reprised one of his greatest hits when he paired voluminous white silk blouses with brightly hued embroidered velvet gypsy skirts. One black cocktail dress was simple enough for Holly Golightly, but most were decoratedsome opulently with rhinestones and tiny silk bows or gold paillettes. His red carpet numbers ranged from streamlined racer-back columns with heavy dustings of sequins to Empire-line tulle princess gowns to brocade showstoppers that grazed the toes of audience members as they glided byjust the thing for a larger-than-life diva like Knowles.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo

















