February 06, 2005 New York
But this was no retro collection. There were Proenza Schouler trademarks aplentyincluding bustier tops (a few of which took on the conic proportions of Jean Paul Gaultier's), great coats, and they-only-work-on-the-runway girdlesall of which showcased the duo's skillful seaming. These were layered, sometimes three and four at a time, with silk jersey tanks, cashmere knits, and trim blazers, capes, or coats in lush tweeds, herringbones, and houndstooths. Evening looks, on the other hand, were more pared down, as in color-blocked silk chiffon gowns that were cinched with satin belts.
The overall effect was more youthful than their recent presentations, but somehow that seems right. Hernandez and McCollough are major talents, with five hit collections and a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize under their belt. But they are also, after all, just a couple of 26-year-olds.