Riccardo Tisci
MILAN, February 25, 2005
By Sarah Mower
The idea of discovering a young designer in Milan brought out the crowds to Riccardo Tisci's presentation, even though it meant herding into a desolate, derelict factory late at night. There, they were met with the full conceptual works: a set clouded with church incense that included a full-size wooden cross, a blonde virgin, and what looked like a funeral pyre piled with dead leaves. Then, through the smoke emerged Mariacarla Boscono solemnly dressed in a floor-sweeping black cardinal coat, followed by many more of Tisci's model friends, acting out a funereal fashion rite in the half-light.What was discernible in the gloom were long-skirted silhouettes, topped with voluminous jackets, or more-sculpted raw-edged deconstructed leathers and furs with tight pencil skirts. Amid the spooky posturing and occasional sacrilegious pouting against the crucifix, some sinuous black dresses and beaded shearlings had impact. Though the proceedings, and many of the clothes, owed a lot to the influence of Martin Margiela and others of the somber school of Belgian design, Tisci is clearly a name worth watching.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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