February 02, 2005 New York
In a tableau of 14 looks, Gueron worked the minimalist mood that's making itself felt now: pared down and simple, but not to the point of severity. It showed in the mix of slight-shouldered jackets edged with ruffles, worn over a lace wrap dress or an Empire-line evening gown; in the palette of black and navy brightened with flashes of ivory, peach, and a delicate shade of silvery blue; and in the judicious use of antique-look jewelry from Iradj Moini. Dresses have been a focus of her earlier collections, and she offered some good examples for fall: in particular, one with a U-shape neckline of flattened ruffles and another with gathers under the bust that subtly drew attention to the waist.
"It's not so romantic and draped this season," the designer said from the sidelines. "It's much more sexy and grown up." She looked a little shell-shocked as a stream of hip young editors stepped forward to congratulate her, voicing a constant refrain of "It's just what I want to wear right now." Seems like Gueron's study of her own sartorial needs has struck a chord.