February 12, 2005 London
They sustained that thought convincingly through a show that opened with a short cream belted wrap coat with rolled cuffs, which showed a flip of silver skirt beneath. Using jersey, crepe, chiffon, and the occasional herringbone tweed, they managed to balance their act between soft wrappings and easy structure. Slim dresses came with sequined apron tabards and suspender backs, or more simply, square-cut with a nice loose hang from the shoulder. Some of the layered jersey skirts and wispy tie-on tops were a tad overcomplicated, but the raglan-sleeve herringbone coat, with its larger shoulder line and leggy length slung a hip new proportion.
In all, this was a remarkably accomplished first outing for a pair of designers who competed for last year's hotly contested Fashion Fringe award, and lost by a squeak. The publicity rocketed them to the attention of Aeffe executives, who've gone fishing for the future of fashion this season in London's international gene pool.