February 05, 2005 New York
The soft-spoken Giberson decided to live quite large this season, in more ways than one; the designer is pregnant, and she chose to explore the theme of "magnification." That meant homing in on a single element of each of her 26 looks and enlarging it"without losing sight," she said, "of the overall proportions." The results? A herringbone jacket with a top-stitched pocket that extended all the way around the side. A navy blazer with one giant button front-and-center. Blouses with huge cuffs finished with oversize braided cuff links. Enormous pleats on baggy trousers. Even the hair and makeup artists had fun with the idea: Models had Rapunzel-length ponytails or double braids extending down their backs, and half had exaggerated eyebrows while the others wore extended under-lashes. The designer redid the classic trench with eye-catching epaulets, and her silk dresses, many with raised waistlines and some accessorized by jewelry from Ninh Wysocan, were pretty with a capital P. "Refined" is the word that Giberson chose to describe her collection, and it's an apt one. Arty seems so "last season."