Tess Giberson
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 6, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
"Arty" is a label that has stuck to Tess Giberson since her 2000 debut, and it's easy to see why. Not only does she hand sew part of each garment she makes, but her personal history (rural upbringing as the daughter of artists, training at RISD, marriage to a painter) is pretty crunchy-bohemian, too. For fall, however, Giberson presented a collection that was as sophisticated as it was artful.The soft-spoken Giberson decided to live quite large this season, in more ways than one; the designer is pregnant, and she chose to explore the theme of "magnification." That meant homing in on a single element of each of her 26 looks and enlarging it—"without losing sight," she said, "of the overall proportions." The results? A herringbone jacket with a top-stitched pocket that extended all the way around the side. A navy blazer with one giant button front-and-center. Blouses with huge cuffs finished with oversize braided cuff links. Enormous pleats on baggy trousers. Even the hair and makeup artists had fun with the idea: Models had Rapunzel-length ponytails or double braids extending down their backs, and half had exaggerated eyebrows while the others wore extended under-lashes. The designer redid the classic trench with eye-catching epaulets, and her silk dresses, many with raised waistlines and some accessorized by jewelry from Ninh Wysocan, were pretty with a capital P. "Refined" is the word that Giberson chose to describe her collection, and it's an apt one. Arty seems so… "last season."
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Imitation of Christ -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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