United Bamboo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 4, 2005
By Mark Holgate
At first, United Bamboo's fall show seemed headed perilously close to territory previously charted by Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière, with its play on A lines and circular volume, and Koos van den Akker-esque paneled inserts of different fabrics on shoulders and sleeves. But what emerged in the end was something rather more original.The inspiration for this collection, revealed Thuy Pham—he designs the line in conjunction with Miho Aoki—was Andrei Tarkovsky's 1972 movie Solaris. "We wanted to reference science fiction," said Pham backstage, "but not to be too literal. We contrasted the geometric, sculptural look of the clothes with natural wools and tweeds." Their approach worked best with the gray wool jersey dresses layered with gray tops, one of which was adorned with panels of bright lime, pink, and blue; militaristic flannel minidresses, one in camel, the other in black; and a soft, yet severe, pleated shirt and skirt that looked like it would have passed muster with the Politburo.
What really intrigued, though, was an influence that seemed to come from closer to home. Those zippers that etched the body? That intricate, eye-catching contrast of fabrics? Traces, perhaps, of the work of the late Geoffrey Beene, making contact with a whole new generation.
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Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gardem Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Habitual Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Donis Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Riccardo Tisci Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Sweetface -
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Temperley London Tess Giberson Thakoon Tsumori Chisato Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
