January 17, 2006 Milan
Dell'Acqua defined the body with his close-cut shearling and a trim brown leather blouson. But he allowed a little luxury into his pared-down proposition with jeans that were treated to shine, a topcoat trimmed in black satin, and a single-buttoned, shawl-collared tux. And the shoes throughout were a sleek, dandified black patent. But what's enduringly odd about Dell'Acqua is the way in which the women's clothing he shows alongside his men's collection is fleshily sensual, while the clothes he makes for guys are so cool and detached, they're practically arctic. Come to think of it, perhaps that's why he cited the aloof Ms. Smith as his menswear muse.