Querelle, meet Madonna. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana introduced the studly sailor to the disco queen on their D&G runway. Who else but Domenico and Stefano would crowd the catwalk with both a host of model boys in crystal-studded Madge T-shirts and a crew of mutinous mariners in worn and frayed nautical garb?

The denims that are a D&G staple were shown full and low-slung (and belted with thick rope), except when they were brutally truncated over a pair of equally damaged long johns. Peajackets came in denim and leather, cut high and narrow to cling. A pinstripe jacket was so shrunken it loaned its wearer an urchin air. Huge cable sweaters and cardigans were sailor-striped. A traditional yellow slicker ingeniously reversed to a navy wool hoodie. All in all, there was an easygoing rough edge to the collection that gave the show a whole heap of winning energy and character.