January 19, 2006 Milan
Kean gave it his best shot, sending out dozens of variations of the Prince of Wales check (he called it "the most classic leitmotif in menswear fabric"). The overriding impression, however, was that the catwalk was awash with gray, and no one has ever been able to say that about an Etro show before. There were shots of color, like a hot-pink corduroy jacket or a sky-blue cotton coat, and the Etro paisley was highlighted in everything from silky robes (worn as overcoats) to a suit (finished off with a cardigan in lilac). But from the very first outfita double-breasted topcoat over a suitthere was an atypical, oh-so-serious, all-grown-up air to the proceedings.
Still, there's no denying the Duke was a snappy dresser, and Kean did him justice in some superbly shaped jackets. And the patterned knit cardigan coats thrown over pinstripes were, if not strictly Windsor style, at least novel enough to pass for class.