John Ray is homesick for his native Scotland. Or at least that's how it would seem, judging from his latest Gucci collection. After several seasons of elegance fit for an Italian aristocrat, Ray was inspired to cut loose by the portraits of some of his favorite old Scottish artists. "Wild and romantic" was what he was looking for. With their voluminous coats, high boots, and streaming hair, the models did indeed look like they'd just spent several centuries making their way down from the Highlands.
Coats were the key component of the collection: hems
dipped, backs were pleated for extra volume; one
almost swept the floor in a highwayman style. To this
reviewer, at least, the proportions seemed slightly
off. I'm all for a break from the tyranny of skinny
tailoring, but these coats were almost too big.
Underneath, Ray showed a series of poetically flowing
voile shirts with ruffles or lace sleeves. Trousers
throughout were tucked into boots, with a ruff of
cashmere sock at the top. He gave his poet a shot of
punk with a mohair sweater (a frill peeking over its
collar) and a plaid shirt in wool flannel. Pair that
with a scarf flowing from the waist, and for one mad
moment, Axl Rose stalked the Gucci catwalkthat,
for good or ill, is about as far from Luchino Visconti
as you can get.
Fall 2006 Menswear
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