There were a mere ten male models in his tableau vivant for fall, but Andrew Harmon compressed a whole world of adolescent sartorial dreams—Rocky Horror, Roxy Music, CBGB—into those outfits. (For his accompanying womenswear, meanwhile, he was channeling Christiane F. and Jodie Foster's Foxes!)

There was a whiff of Roxy's Bryan Ferry in a gray velvet smoking jacket worn over a glam gold shirt, and Rocky's Riff Raff was evoked by a boy in cotton gabardine tails. That combination of elegant form and prosaic content has always been a Harmon signature, and it could also be seen here in a pair of denim dungarees paired with a double-faced satin jacket, as well as in leather jeans topped by a little satin vest. Elsewhere, Harmon stepped up the fabrics this season. Witness his silk mesh evening shirt (decorously sheer) or the silk satin suiting he used for high-waist trousers. "If you're going to go glam, you've got to do it right," he said.