February 05, 2006 New York
Unsurprisingly, it was the outerwear that impressed in this collection, particularly in a duffel coat or the chunky four-pocketed style that's known as a mackinaw, or indeed anything else that evoked L.L.Bean. The knit trim on the pockets of a brown leather blouson or blazer was a nice touch. But the tailored pieces looked a little lumpen, and the sparkly silver hunting jacket was just plain weird (loden green and bark brown make more sense for the Bartlett Man).
But then the designer himself has always been partial to a streak of perverse whimsy. Hence the Gay Men's Chorus harmonizing their way through "It's Now or Never" to open the show. Is that how Bartlett himself feels about his place in the fashion firmament?