February 12, 2006 New York
As the final show of New York fashion week, the collection appropriately distilled the season's key menswear trends: significant outerwear, military detailing, trenchcoats (here cropped into jackets), knitwear given textural interest (little gaping mouths were slashed into black wool). Viking motifs were stitched into sweaters, adding a warriors-in-the-wasteland edge to Lagerfeld's dystopian vision. An evening look showed up in a white-tie combination deconstructed as an asymmetrically shawl-collared shirt with attached vest pockets. Given that this label (called Karl Lagerfeld) is intended as a more "price-sensitive" collection, its dramatic point of view made it a welcome addition to the busload of college-boy-friendly second lines that other designers have offered throughout the week.