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Lanvin

PARIS, February 8, 2006
By Tim Blanks
Seeing that Jeanne Lanvin was the first designer to create a collection for men, this could technically be viewed as a relaunch. But the house's current creative force, Alber Elbaz, also saw it as an opportunity to lay down some fresh guidelines. "We know Italian, we know English, but French style is still an abstract idea to men," he observed. He imagined "something chic, not aggressive—a white shirt with pearl buttons, cashmere pajamas to go to sleep, a smoking in knitwear." And he paraded all of those items through a salon in the suitably elegant Hôtel de Crillon.

There was a distinct Alber-ness to the attitude of the show—not just styling touches like the bowties and trainers, but the general floppiness and lived-in feel of the clothes. This latter quality has been one of Elbaz's unique selling points with the popular women's collection he designs for Lanvin. Just as there, the dresses have a story to tell; here, the way outfits were composed evoked a specific mood. They suggested a man who embodies ease and eccentricity in equal amounts (much like Elbaz himself).

The formality of frock coats and jackets with tux detailing was diffused by the languor of trousers in gold velvet or burgundy satin. The Lanvin man can do sobriety when he needs to in his gray flannel suit or long navy coat, but a cardigan over a scoop-neck top, or a hoodie under a jacket, or those cashmere pajamas hinted at the easygoing sensualist within. This is French style viewed through a very particular filter.

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