Paul Smith
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 29, 2006
By Tim Blanks
"Everyone's been doing rock 'n' roll [but] we shouldn't forget the cowboy," Paul Smith said after his show, citing Paul Newman and Clint Eastwood as icons of cowpoke masculinity. Smith, though, is English to the roots of his spectacular mane of hair, so the collection we had just witnessed was more Savile Row-deo than Home on the Range.That said, the Wild West and the West End shared a sleeping bag with surprising ease. The slightly Edwardian edge of cowboy tailoring sits well with English pinstripes and plaids. A shirt with Western detailing juiced up a suit in dark-gray flannel, and a pinstripe lining loaned some urban gravitas to a floor-sweeping duster.
The big city-big country combination yielded the occasional oddity (one tailored jacket featured a tapestry depiction of what looked like The Last Roundup). More often, though, the Western elementsa cowboy's belt buckle worn with striped pants, or the Indian beading on cotton shirtsshowed how a regular guy can add some vital idiosyncrasy to his wardrobe.
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Fall 2006 Menswear
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Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Ann Demeulemeester -
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Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Chalayan Cloak Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emporio Armani Etro -
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Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Harmon Hermès -
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Issey Miyake -
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J.Lindeberg Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu -
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Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Rachel Comey Raf Simons Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rykiel Homme -
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Thom Browne Trovata -
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Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent








































