Viktor & Rolf
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 25, 2006
By Tim Blanks
That kiddie classic Playmobil is immensely popular in Europe, where, ever since the seventies, children have been turning flat, featureless, little plastic creatures into various characters with the addition of different click-on accessories. Now, thanks to Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, the figures appear to have become a comment on the genetic militarism of men.In a collection dominated by toy-bright reds and blues plus military tones, the designers focused on boyhood fantasies of grown-up power. A pair of trousers came with attached cowboy holsters and cartridge holder (the bullet that was thoughtfully included was engraved "Monsieur"). T-shirts were printed with a gun or a grenade (in fetching pink!). A Swiss Army knife appeared as a Pop Art multiple on a shirt. One jacket was woven with black-on-black Jacquard revolvers. Another, in beige cashmere cotton, had monochrome detailing like the braid on a general's jacket.
Playmobil's click-ons were duplicated in surface adornmentsruffles, badges, military decorationswhich Velcro-ed on and off. The company's exaggerated detailing was reflected in jeans with huge stitching. And the figures' two-dimensionality was apparent in lapels stitched flat to create a featureless plane. So, if you fancy evoking a plastic toy with your wardrobe for next fall, your options are obvious.
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Fall 2006 Menswear
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Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Ann Demeulemeester -
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Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Chalayan Cloak Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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Emanuel Ungaro Emporio Armani Etro -
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Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Harmon Hermès -
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Issey Miyake -
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J.Lindeberg Jean Paul Gaultier Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Kris Van Assche -
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Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu -
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Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Rachel Comey Raf Simons Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rykiel Homme -
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Thom Browne Trovata -
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Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent







