January 26, 2006 Paris
College-striped wool jackets featured stitched slits back and front, which gaped like wounds. OK, maybe that's not so cheery, but the treble clef embroidered on the back of another jacket was reminiscent of surrealist Man Ray's famous superimposition on a woman's bare back. Jackets draped with medal-like attachments had a toy-soldier charm, matched by a four-star general's insignia writ large as an appliqué.
Yohji's latest Adidas collaboration registered in sneakers decorated with artist Taishi Hayashi's colorful interpretations of a tiger, eagle, wolf, and dragon, with tops to match. The decoration extended to an overstitched crimson spiral pattern on a navy coat. The final passage was all about trims, like passementerie on jackets and coats, or the great loops of leather that limned the hem of a huge purple trench and the collar of the shirt beneath. What was the significance of these insectoid protuberances? "Gothic," said Yamamoto cryptically, pointing to a small blue dot woven into the lapel of his jacket. Well, if you say so, Yohji.