February 09, 2006 New York
The Yohji-Adidas collaboration is what it isa pragmatic collection of high-functioning sportswear injected with a judicious dose of fashion sense (the shawl collar on a sweater, zipped cuffs and tabbed ankles, red accents, a nylon hoodie rendered in gingham). The show, on the other hand, was a shadow-drenched extravaganza that elevated the notion of noir (the collection's stated theme) into a full-on vision of violence. A murder of crows, indeed. That bird showed up knitted into the back of large black or white sweaters, or as the feathers that ran across the shoulders of a jacket or down the side seams of a pair of combat pants. A capelet of black feathers draped one of Yohji's signature cutaway jackets. Dueling pistols were knitted into a cardigan or beaded on a pair of pants, and one trenchcoat featured the motif of a single hand clutching a dagger, also picked out in beads. In light of the overall theme of the collection, these pieces seemed incongruous at best.