Alessandro Dell'Acqua
MILAN, February 23, 2006
By Tim Blanks
It's his tenth anniversary in fashion, which was all the excuse Alessandro Dell'Acqua needed to reflect on his greatest hits. "I love dresses, I love knitwear, I love nude and black," he said backstage, and all those elements were present in his new collection. Though there were accents of green, purple, and leopard print, the definitive Dell'Acqua outfit for fall is a bustier dress in black nylon, hand-hemmed in a hefty weight of black beading, with a tiny little black cardigan tugged over the top.The designer momentarily broke with the past by skipping the chiffon he's often used to achieve his signature veiling effects, instead using a black techno-tulle that is more commonly employed as an extreme-sports fabric. It was laid to suggestive effect over flesh-tone knitwear or a nude dress made of lining fabric. Though the result hinted at something vaguely fetishistic, Dell'Acqua insisted he had the earthiness of legendary Italian actress Anna Magnani in mind. The dark smudged eyes and bed hair of the models certainly suggested her influence. So did the casual sensuality of an outfit that featured a shirt open over a bra, worn with a nude pencil skirt and a big woolen stole. The bra, however, was in gleaming lacquered wool, a reminder of the technical fabric treatments that frequently characterize Dell'Acqua's work. These were highlighted to great effect on a coat whose intricate pattern was formed from laser-cut fur on a techno-fabric background. The lining of lingerie lace, meanwhile, meant all the designer's fascinations were brought together in one item.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
