A.F. Vandevorst
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 27, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
A.F. Vandevorst's Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst said they had "a seduction" in mind while designing their fall line—that of the artist Joseph Beuys by an imaginary paramour. The concept played to what is usually one of the duo's strengths: lingerie. At one point, four models performed a sort of striptease, untying softly tailored white shirts to reveal retro underpinnings, and for good measure, the designers featured a disembodied voice chanting "silence is sexy" on the soundtrack. The overall effect though was curiously unerotic—a state of affairs that wasn't helped by the fact that the show was staged in Paris' cavernous and altogether unromantic Palais Omnisport.The collection worked better when the Belgian duo abandoned the carnal pursuits for the kind of smart sportswear that would fly at the office or on a first date—think stiff trenches, slouchy cardigans, and fur gilets. The latter came in many variations and lengths; the chicest were cinched at the waist, just grazing the hips. A pair of dresses, one in a cream kimono style and another in pleated black jersey, was covered up, but didn't lack for come-hither appeal. And speaking of sexy, the few over-the-knee leather boots A.F. Vandevorst showed had the collection's menagerie of clunky rabbit-fur booties looking like children's winterwear in comparison.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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