February 03, 2006
While some of his peers have been touting an eighties revival, Alexandre Herchcovitch took a different turn, presenting a serene show that was inspired by the Italian Renaissance. He created a courtly atmosphere by placing a line of tasseled flags down the center of the runway, some flying his initials, others with skull and crossbones. "I wanted to mix something noble with something punk," he explained. The show opened with an emphasis on the latter, featuring all-black looks, the best of which were strong-shouldered military-style coats, adorned with rows of buttons. Color was first introduced in the form of a simple purple chiffon dress with subtly quilted sleeves. Cinched with a belt with a skull buckle, it was one of the show's strongest looks. Punk Ophelias also had their pick of flowy patchwork floral gowns, as well as Capulet-sleeve jackets to layer over them. Less attractive were a series of complicated dresses with floral prints strangely veiled under chiffon. If not a royal flush, this collection, taken in pieces, looked confident and romantic, and showed Herchcovitch back on track after spring's psychedelic trip.