Akris
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 3, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Albert Kriemler's Akris collections speak in hushed tones. That's what makes his clothes so popular with ladies of decorous taste yet lavish means, but it doesn't always make for good runway. To compare him to the showman Karl Lagerfeld—whose Chanel productions directly precede those of Akris—isn't fair, of course, but Kriemler doesn¿t help his cause with some of his staging choices. Why not select music that's a little more upbeat? And while we're on the subject of change, perhaps he should think about swapping the catacombs of the Carrousel du Louvre for a new venue—someplace spare and fuss-free like his clothes.Like many other designers this season, Kriemler found inspiration in the sculpted silhouettes of Cristobal Balenciaga. Coats in black mattelassé and ultra-luxe heather-gray vicuña had a cocoon-like shape. Whether or not Akris customers will embrace this backward-looking, forward-moving new direction remains to be seen. But Kriemler played it safer with such items as slouchy cashmere knits and pants cut two ways: slim and tapered or fuller with flap pockets. For evening, the designer rather puzzlingly eliminated structure, draping silk satin or crepe in front and back and occasionally leaving the sides of the torso uncovered. Unlike other elements of the collection, these won't make the leap to retail without some serious rethinking back at the studio.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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