Basso & Brooke
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 16, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Welcome to a grimy vault adjacent to the London Dungeon, the setting for Basso & Brooke's Fall collection. While the Jack the Ripper surroundings certainly damped down the eye-searing color of their flamboyant summer collection, all the hallmarks of Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke's deliberately schlocky aesthetics were still on full display. For starters, they trotted out a Valkyrie in a top hat, cutaway redingote, and electro-fluoro patterned leggings.This Brazilian and British pair loves an eighties silhouette: leggings, nipped jackets, silk dresses, and big, poufy-sleeve tops. That hasn't changed, nor has their affection waned for covering every available surface in print. For fall, they dubbed their print story "New Discoveries." Close up, it proved to be an intricate merging of eighteenth-century etchings and surreal science and engineering illustrations, notable (for people with their reputation) for its lack of pornographic content, as well as for its darker palette of greens, browns, and purples.
"New Discoveries," though, had a hidden double meaning. The designers are increasingly aware of how the fashion machine works, thanks to their Italian backer Aeffe. And they're thinking seriously about proving they can do commercial, regular-looking jackets and blouses. Three seasons in, Aeffe is convinced and has signed them to another contract. So far, so good, but the ability to condense their message is still something they need to practice.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
F
Fendi -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
J
J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
L
Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
N
Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
R
Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
