Chado Ralph Rucci
NEW YORK, February 10, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
Chado Ralph Rucci and Karl Lagerfeld: The two shows that closed out New York fashion week represented opposite ends of the fashion spectrum. Lagerfeld, who showed downtown, values youth and change; uptown, Rucci honored, as always, seriousness and consistency. Each designer has his groupies, with Martha Stewart front-row for Rucci's fall collection.Chado is never about big surprises or theatrics, with seasons mostly distinguished by whichever virtuoso technique Rucci happens to have focused on, and how he applies it to familiar silhouettes. Thus, fall was about woven cane, perforated leathers, and tone-on-tone embroidery. And that's enough, because the workmanship of these clothes is truly marvelous, and always worth coming back for. Take, for example, the opening look: an openwork jacket with layered pieces of lambskin appliquéd in a tortoiseshell pattern. Or a floor-length sable with a hand-woven cane coat worn over it like a cage. Strange, and amazing. Furs were luxe to the max: Imagine sable dyed blue and worked into an anorak, or honey-colored and wrapped around the body like a cocoon. Rucci's most youthful pieces tend to be his jersey and crepe dresses; for fall, they were pieced and in a harlequin pattern, some worn with Dean Harris' dramatic jewelry. But the evening's showstopper was an off-the-shoulder black velvet gown fit for a modern Madame X.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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