February 06, 2006 New York
The palette was succinct. Inspired by the painter Oscar Bluemner, whose work is currently on view at the Whitney, it focused on gray, red, navy, and camel. Silhouettes were also kept to a minimum: skinny pants, capes, Eton jackets, and scoop-neck dresses in jersey and wools. The tightness of the show was both its strength and its weakness: There was consistency of vision, but it was also repetitive, relying too heavily on one or two tricks (the frog closures used for ornamentation, for example). Still, with so many frills everywhere else for fall, it was undeniably refreshing to see such a clean collection.