Calvin Klein
NEW YORK, February 9, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
After last season's air conditioner breakdown and the swelter that ensued, the Calvin Klein team was in the market for a new show venue. The minimal white West 39th Street space they opted for today may not have been the very last word in comfort, but it was a huge improvement over Milk Studios. Kudos then to whoever oversaw the switch in location—and to Francisco Costa, whose fall collection, if not as strong as his spring breakthrough, was a competitive runner-up. The Brazilian designer is in his seventh season with the house, and perhaps it's time to stop counting. He's charting his own course now.Costa can work a theme like nobody's business. His last go-around, it was circles; for fall, he zeroed in on herringbone. At its most basic, that meant cutting full trousers in the traditional menswear fabric, but this was not a collection about basics. Dress after airy dress was embroidered with V-shape patterns of varying sizes, picked out in wool or bugle beads, and several were real stunners. Take, for instance, the pair of fire-engine-red chiffon gowns that closed the show, or another number in black and brown that cascaded below the knee in wool box pleats, then hobbled above the ankle. It had substance, unlike some of the lighter-weight gowns, which wandered a little too close to lingerie territory. At retail, linings will be in order; apart from anything else, these are fall clothes. More traditionally seasonal in vein were a series of black wool-crepe coats with wide cuffs, inverted pleats on the sleeves, and trapeze hems. They showcased Costa's skills as a tailor and left the audience hankering for a few more suits with that same attention to luxe detail.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
