Costume National
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 28, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
In his program notes, Costume National's Ennio Capasa suggested that the rock chick he dressed in the nineties has grown up. Unfortunately, the designer seems to think that growing up means losing your edge, judging from his uncharacteristically muted fall show. Despite experimenting with both long and short, eighties-tight and sixties-loose, suggestive and naïve, the collection felt a bit repetitive. There were eminently wearable minicoats, trenches, and the season's de rigueur half-wool/half-fur overcoat, but they lacked a recognizable identity that will make women seek them out.Pants, once a Costume National strong suit with their masculine yet sexy fit, inexplicably came with pleats beginning at the top of the thigh. They're as likely to see the light of day as the stiff leather floor-grazing skirt that was also shown. Thankfully, for evening Capasa took a more sensual approach. He mostly abandoned last season's superfluous jeweled embellishments—save for one sleek sheath that was fully beaded in front and plain in back—and focused on cut. Bustier dresses were fitted to just above the knee, as were his skirt suits, and he threw in a couple of voile gowns. The stronger of the two came with braided straps and fell in soft tiers to the floor—at last a hint of what grown-up rock chic might look like.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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