February 06, 2006 New York
However, a growing clique of fashion insiders does not a business make. So in addition to elevating the quiet charms of their fall silhouetteswraps, halter gowns, and sheaths, mostlywith exquisite lace linings, the designers are continuing to add more sportswear separates to their mix. Sturdy moleskin trousers set off a delicate David Hockney-blue sleeveless top very well, but a coat cut from the same fabric that hit at the hips looked boxy; the knee-length version had more swing.
Just when you might have expected them to expand on these ideas, a fox jacket and a raccoon capelet ended Costello Tagliapietra's small collection. If they're committed to growing bigger, the designers will have to spend less time on such fluff, luxe though it may be, and focus more on pieces like the great-looking gathered-shoulder top and slim skirt that were almost obscured by a fur muff.