Donna Karan
NEW YORK, February 10, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Donna Karan went back to the archives for her fall inspirations. Bodysuits and leggings—both elements of the Seven Easy Pieces equation that launched her brand 20-plus years ago—formed a kind of backbone for the collection, from which tulip skirts and similarly full dresses and coats could bloom. The show wasn't all about proportion-play; in a stretch-silk tuxedo jacket and stretch-wool trousers, the model Vlada looked as if she could slip through the cracks in the sidewalk. But this, and a few other exits like it, seemed little more than concessions to the current craze for pantsuits. Karan's real passion is for dresses—when was the last time you saw the designer in anything else?Last season's tenting freefall dresses made appearances here, but they were reworked so that the fabric draped from the shoulders to reveal the sash in back. Thanks to bodysuits with trompe l'oeil bodices, and nipped-waist sheaths with net insets, there was yet more flesh on display. Provocative, yes, but perfectly tasteful, and the former, at least, won't likely make it to stores without linings anyway. What will arrive unchanged is Karan's outerwear. A gold leather trench with extra-wide lapels and an hourglass white alpaca with a funnel neck were both memorable, but the standout was a coat made from thousands of tiny leather paillettes.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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