Dsquared²
MILAN, February 24, 2006
By Sarah Mower
The red carpet set atop a grass runway said it all about Dean and Dan Caten's Dsquared² show: a camped-up collision of huntin' and shootin' clothes and hoity-toity formalwear. The cheerful play on gamekeeper checks, mackintoshes, and tartan that came at the beginning of their escapade produced some good shrunken jackets, vests, and plaid shirts, which were cleverly mated with tuxedos, bow ties, and jeans. But the momentum proved hard to maintain. After a Mountie trotted by in a teeny red puffer and jodhpurs, it fell to Angela Lindvall to keep a straight face while wearing a sporran on a Black Watch coat-dress.By that point, the Catens were knee-deep into their country-house ballwear, and the joke was flagging. Most of their satin dresses and crystal-beaded knits looked like rehashes of things Dolce & Gabbana did years ago. It was an odd detour, because what actually keeps audiences coming here is the spirited, sexy stuff the Dsquared² duo does with jeans and streetwear. Sure enough, denim did make an appearance in the form of cropped, vaguely jodhpur-ish pants. Good-looking though these were, they first appeared on their runway a few seasons ago, so there was a sense of waiting for the next installment. It never materialized. Could the Caten boys please put their heads together, quit fooling around so much, and get on with their next real surprise?
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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