Dries Van Noten
PARIS, March 1, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
A heavy brown curtain obscured the runway as Dries Van Noten's guests ambled to their seats. There were cakes and ginger tea on offer, and the proceedings had the feeling of a cocktail party, despite the early hour. When the partitions finally lifted, the audience was dazzled by what seemed like acres of delicate gold leaf (flecks of which could be found in the preshow treats) and a fall collection that was equal parts Eastern splendor and somber masculinity.In less able hands, the combination could have proved jarring, or forced at the very least. But forced isn't Van Noten's style. Starting with the first look—a boxy jacket, sashed high across the bust, and a colorful skirt edged with gold thread—it was a happy marriage. From the East came tapestry fabrics, bullion embroidery, and a crescent-moon print in cream and cherry red; from a tailor's arsenal there were cummerbunds, trenches, and small, fitted jackets tucked into high-waisted, cropped pants that—in a season of suits—managed to be surprisingly original. If the tapered-hem sack dresses and cardigans with their arms tied across the torso seemed too familiar, they touched on the current trends for egg shapes and layering, without diverging much from Van Noten's own artsy vocabulary. All in all, this collection more than lived up to the designer's gold standard.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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