Emporio Armani
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 22, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Giorgio Armani has major ambitions for his Emporio empire. Talking backstage among racks of spotted dévoré velvet dresses, puff-shouldered leather jackets, taffeta bubble skirts, rabbit and fake-fur coats, and rows and rows of crocodile-stamped ballerina flats and platforms, he said his second line is going global; 13 new stores will open this year, with 19 more by the end of 2007.To fuel that turbo-charged expansion, he's harnessed his young team of studio designers to take the collection—and the accessories—in a direction that is much more sharply in step with fashion. His opening look was a narrow laser-cut fake-fur coat over a knee-length skirt, silk blouse, and squared-off ballet flats with metal-tipped bows at the toe—the Emporio version of the bourgeois lady look, neatly nailed. Like Armani's main collection, Emporio avoided pants (if you overlook the odd pair of wide-leg taffeta knickers) in favor of a jacket-and-skirt or jacket-over-dress combination. The designer also reprised the forties silhouette in velvet polka dots as well as working up many variations of draped bubble skirts.
Armani tends to show so many outfits on the runway that the collection becomes difficult to digest. A better way to look at them is separately, on a rack, the way they'll be seen in a store. In that context, many of the elements—those tiny, curvy, battered-leather spencers, a rockin' zebra-print fake-fur jacket, the chunky-glam shoes, and his first great hat, a fox cossack with a black patent visor—qualify as pretty cool.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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