Giles
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 17, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Finally Giles Deacon is living up to his hype. For fall, he whipped himself out of his complacent groove as a young London designer who reveres "lady couture," and delivered something splashy, quirky, and colorfully original.Part of the show's punch was in the bold stripes, dots, gigantic leopard spots, fluorescents, Lurex, patent leather, and holograms he used—in marked contrast to the somber wintry palettes that have been depressing the mood elsewhere. Another plus was in his silhouettes: fifties and sixties shifts and trapezes, hourglass eighties dresses, and—new to him—flowy poncho tops over easy pants. Deacon said he'd been inspired by the paintings of Ellsworth Kelly, as well as "a healthy feeling that I wanted to throw everything out and look for contemporary modernism."
But you don't need a fashion or art history degree to respond to Deacon. It hardly matters that he researched his patterns in the Tate in St. Ives, or that references to Cardin can be caught along the way. What does count is that the results—seamed and patched together into arty, optically vivid effects—don't look like any reverent rehash of the past. It's taken a few seasons to get there, but now that Deacon has found the nerve to say what he believes in, he's turning into something interesting.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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