Hermès
PARIS, March 4, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Jean Paul Gaultier wasn't the first designer this week to catch the fencing bug: Viktor & Rolf put their models in pearl and rattan mesh masks. But Gaultier took it further at Hermès, sending a few of his polished gals out with honest-to-goodness three-foot foils. Sure, they were a little gimmicky—as were the riding crops which appeared later—but they sharpened the show's sporty themes, reinforced throughout by pants tucked into glossy leather boots. And you couldn't begrudge Gaultier his props, because everything from an on-trend long black leather cape (which appeared twice) to a timeless checkered pantsuit was beautifully made and effortlessly chic.If Gaultier's signature collection was showy, Hermès was quieter. Fine-gauge knits, woolen pencil skirts, streamlined trenches, and cropped shearlings and furs came without the ornamentation they were treated to elsewhere this season. In contrast, an interlude of silk Jacquard in silvery-gray or bordeaux that featured matched fencers was busier: while it displayed Gaultier's ready humor, it didn't have the same anonymous sophistication as the rest of the proceedings. Mostly, the designer stuck to a black, brown, and ivory palette, the better to showcase the multitude of mega-luxe bags. Using the brand logo on his clothes has been a temptation for Gaultier in seasons past, but today he resisted, and in the process put himself in a position to make new fans among women for whom elegance trumps labels.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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