John Galliano
PARIS, March 4, 2006
By Sarah Mower
To get to John Galliano's fall show, guests had to drag themselves to a bleak industrial studio on the outskirts of Paris on a freezing and traffic-clogged Saturday night. But if anyone was expecting one of the designer's extravagant fashion performances as compensation for the trek, it didn't materialize. Instead, Galliano offered what was, for him, a minor-key piece about a tattered army of Confederates.The show opened, rather confusingly, with some long black bulky coats that looked like near counterparts to the ones he had shown earlier in the week at Dior, though a touch rougher and more rustic in the execution. As it went on, the differences emerged more, as frayed fragments of the American flag got patched into skirts and jackets, and plaid work-shirting appeared shaded into the tips of garments. More than the clothes, it was the music—stirring country-music ballads of war and personal loss sung by Emmylou Harris, Joan Baez, and Dolly Parton—that transmitted the feeling that Galliano was fingering: aspects of patriotism and working-class American roots, as well as hints of its current psychological state. It added a timely footnote to the march of militarism that has risen elsewhere this season, and there was a certain poignance to his faded and homespun paisely patchwork-printed prairie dresses and makeshift coats and hats apparently hewn out of Victorian rugs. But though they fit nicely enough into his narrative, they lacked some of the creative intensity that Galliano usually brings. Unlike his wilder outings, this didn't feel like a collection in which he had taken on a personal battle to push fashion forward.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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