February 09, 2006
Some interesting things are happening at Wolfgang Joop's Wunderkind. The theme of his fall show was "a return to order after the First World War," and that translated into the sort of dark, yet somehow hopeful, mood that we've witnessed on other runways. The Wunderkind aesthetic is grown-up and luxurious, but it can also be rigorous, as evidenced by the strong, forties-like peaked shoulders that added sharpness to a gray suit and a shawl-collar coat. Luxury came in many forms; a batiked patchwork mink coat stood out. Joop's exercises in layering were less consistent: An apron skirt and caplet jacket worn over a shirtdress, for example, didn't really work. That wasn't the only time the designer veered off course, but all in all, this season found him tapping successfully into fashion's prevailing Zeitgeist, in a stylized and luxe way that is all his own.