Jean Paul Gaultier
PARIS, February 28, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
"If I want animals, I can go to the Bronx Zoo," one editor wisecracked as she left Jean Paul Gaultier's beautiful but awkwardly choreographed fall show. To accompany his models, the designer sent out everything from a bald cat to a dreadlocked sheepdog to a greyhound that tried to remove a plastic cone collar as it made its reluctant path down the runway (the girl who wore a matching one of her own didn't look very happy, either). Gaultier could have skipped the pet tricks, because these clothes spoke for themselves. One model came out with an owl perched on her wrist, but what was worth noting was the lovely gold embroidery on her velvet top, as well as the gloves made from tiny half-circles of iridescent leather that evoked python skin.Gaultier played with such touchstones of the moment as fur, dresses over pants, length, and volume. Tucked-hem bubble dresses were teamed with smartly tailored jackets or topped flaring trousers; trapeze coats came in sheared fur or were edged in velvet; and a sparkly evening column was veiled with tulle. In a season of memorable trench coats, Gaultier's were standouts. Some were accessorized with stiff crocodile girdles that, depending on your point of view, smacked of subordination or, more in keeping with the current mood, domination. A few others were straightforward above the waist, flaring out below into flippy, flirty kilts. But the best was Stella Tennant's classic crinkled-silk number—it made you forget the four-legged distractions.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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