Eadweard Muybridge's plates of birds in flight were the lofty starting point for Jasmin Shokrian's second New York outing. And while the references were hardly literal—there were thankfully no feathers trailing from her unfinished edges—they did leave one editor cracking wise, something about Edith Head's Hitchcock suits after "the birds" had gotten to them.

To be fair, Shokrian's asymmetrically drapey sheaths, cocooning jackets, and hobble skirts with tucked hems played squarely into fashion's current fascination with volume, and were only a shade more deconstructed than her well-received debut of a year ago. But layered as they were with what she referred to in her program notes as capelets and collars (dickeys, essentially), they came off as just too tricky.

That's not to say there weren't some high-concept standouts. A circular cardigan in wool jersey called upon Shokrian's sculptural talents. And her fabrics looked rich, especially a charcoal silk crepe folded and pleated into a knee-length dress that was memorable for its relative simplicity.