February 06, 2006 New York
There was a change on the runway, too. Orlandi likes to do sexy, but this time, the allure was more subtle, more likely to be found in the tight fit of a simple sheathin gray wool or even a tiger-pattern brocadethan in a plunging neckline. Orlandi said that he wanted to interpret classic American sportswear using the finest European fabrics, and he had some success, but the concept wasn't always a good fit for the Italian designer. A lone polo shirt, for example, looked gratuitous, and you don't need a show for the plainest of tops and skirts, whatever the material. But Orlandi was on form with his dresses, many of which featured intricate and effective smocking details, and the black macramé gown that closed the show was lovely.