Marni
MILAN, February 21, 2006
By Sarah Mower
It's not easy to take those current buzzwords—"restraint," "sobriety," and "volume"—and interpret them in an understandable, attractive way. At Marni, however, Consuelo Castiglioni had it all worked out. From her first outfit—a straight-from-the-shoulder tunic over a narrow skirt sharpened with white gauntlets—she presented a collection that took on plainness and ease in a way that was positively chic.The success of Marni's new minimalism came from the clever way Castiglioni treated offbeat combinations of fabric, texture, and color. She did slouchy, low-crotch menswear pants, and brought lightness and movement to a structured gray double-knit jersey top by patchworking it to chiffon in the back. She also made sense of graphic cap-sleeve dresses, balloon sleeves, and her signature edge-to-edge over-belted coats by showing them with gray ribbed tights and great three-quarter-length quirky boots, which came with a tiny slice taken out of the toe.
The collection made potentially somber tones of gray vibrate beautifully together, offset against navy, burgundy, and pale, plastery shades of pink and ecru. Marni's gentle rigor carried through to long, slim jersey evening dresses, high-belted in contrasting slivers of patent. These marked a bold step away from the loosely assembled, flower-print, hippie-dippy beginnings of the label, but the measure of its success lies in the fact that Castiglioni has moved forward in a way that seems less like a big departure than a natural progression along her own arty road.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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