February 24, 2006 Milan
The felted wool Menichetti used for yet another coat dress, this one in gray, could have been a Sander fabric. In fact, the depth of fabric research was generally reminiscent of his old boss. The silvery sheen of a quilted jacket was achieved by veiling white silk satin with carbon mesh. The striping on a winter-white felt skirt was created by pulling the dark shade through from the fabric's reverse (a tricky technique called "agugliera"). A demure plum-color frock was covered by a black overlay of diamond-shape cutouts (the designer called it his "new lace").
In the end, though, this manipulation of intriguing fabrics suggested the collection would be better appreciated up close in a showroom, without the conceptual window dressing Menichetti is so partial to come showtime (e.g., today's distracting soundtrack, which was designed to duplicate the sensation of taking a break in a bird-filled garden, while somewhere in the distance, a noisy nightclub thumps ).