Menichetti
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 25, 2006
By Tim Blanks
Roberto Menichetti claimed he was "mixing the bourgeois and the modern" with his latest designs, and he was so pleased with the result he called it his "truest collection yet." Given that claim, it was not a surprise to see echoes of his heyday at Jil Sander in the nineties. The resulting minimalism with a menswear tinge was certainly preferable to the odd monumentalism that has plagued this designer's collections in the recent past, and there was a trim, commonsensical appeal to a navy duffel dress, a navy trench dress, or a winter-white coat dress, cinched in with toggled belts or thin straps.The felted wool Menichetti used for yet another coat dress, this one in gray, could have been a Sander fabric. In fact, the depth of fabric research was generally reminiscent of his old boss. The silvery sheen of a quilted jacket was achieved by veiling white silk satin with carbon mesh. The striping on a winter-white felt skirt was created by pulling the dark shade through from the fabric's reverse (a tricky technique called "agugliera"). A demure plum-color frock was covered by a black overlay of diamond-shape cutouts (the designer called it his "new lace").
In the end, though, this manipulation of intriguing fabrics suggested the collection would be better appreciated up close in a showroom, without the conceptual window dressing Menichetti is so partial to come showtime (e.g., today's distracting soundtrack, which was designed to duplicate the sensation of taking a break in a bird-filled garden, while somewhere in the distance, a noisy nightclub thumps…).
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
C
-
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
F
Fendi -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hermès -
J
J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
L
Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
N
Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
R
Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
